A Long Weekend in Essaouira

There's something about Essaouira that makes you want to stay a little longer than you'd planned.

Perhaps it's the sea air, the narrow streets or the fact that nobody seems to be in much of a hurry. Whatever it is, this little town on Morocco's Atlantic coast has a completely different feel to some of the country's busier destinations.

If you've been to Marrakech, you'll know how wonderfully chaotic it can be. The traffic, the souks, the constant activity. I love that side of Morocco, but Essaouira offers something a little different.

It's the sort of place where you can spend an entire afternoon wandering around without really doing very much, and somehow feel like you've had the loveliest day.

For a long weekend, I can't think of many places better suited to slowing down.

First impressions

The first thing you notice about Essaouira is the wind.

It's not called the Windy City for nothing. Even on a beautiful sunny day, there's usually a breeze coming in from the Atlantic. It's part of the town's character, although it's worth remembering when you're packing.

Then there are the colours. Whitewashed buildings, faded blue doors, little fishing boats gathered in the harbour and the warm stone of the old city walls. Nothing feels too polished, which I rather like.

The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but unlike some historic towns that can feel as though they've been preserved purely for tourists, Essaouira still feels very much lived in.

You'll find small shops selling everything from ceramics and woven baskets to jewellery and artwork. There are workshops tucked away down side streets, cats sleeping in doorways and people going about their everyday business.

My favourite thing to do is simply wander. You don't really need a plan. In fact, I'd say you're better off without one.

Mornings in the medina

One of the nicest things about being away is having time for a proper breakfast. Not grabbing something on the way out of the door or eating while thinking about everything that needs doing that day. Just sitting down and taking your time.

In Essaouira, that might mean fresh bread, eggs, olives, a little honey and a pot of mint tea. Or coffee, of course.

There are plenty of little cafés tucked away in the medina, some with rooftop terraces where you can sit and watch the town slowly come to life.

I always think mornings tell you quite a lot about a place. Shopkeepers opening their doors, deliveries arriving, the smell of bread coming from a nearby bakery. It's ordinary everyday life, but when you're somewhere new, you tend to notice the things you'd probably walk straight past at home. And that's one of the things I enjoy most about travelling. Not necessarily seeing all the famous sights, but getting a little glimpse of what life is like somewhere else.

Down by the harbour

You can't visit Essaouira without spending some time around the fishing harbour. It's busy, noisy and a little chaotic, particularly when the boats come in. Fishermen sorting through their catch, seagulls circling overhead and rows of those beautiful blue wooden boats that have become so recognisable.

It's not glamorous, and that's part of its appeal. There are places nearby where you can have freshly grilled fish, often with nothing more complicated than bread, salad and a squeeze of lemon.

For me, that's the kind of food I enjoy most when travelling. Nothing overly elaborate, just good ingredients prepared simply.

Afterwards, a walk along the ramparts is a lovely way to spend an hour. The views across the Atlantic are beautiful, especially later in the day when the light starts to soften. Take a jacket, though. That wind doesn't disappear just because the sun is shining.

An afternoon in Sidi Kaouki

If you have a few days in Essaouira, I'd definitely recommend heading down the coast to Sidi Kaouki.

It's around half an hour away by car and feels like another world.

A long stretch of beach, a handful of cafés and restaurants, surfers heading into the water and not an awful lot else.

Which is exactly why I like it. It's much quieter than Essaouira, and there's something lovely about finding a spot overlooking the beach and just staying there for a while.

You could take a long walk along the sand, watch the surfers or settle down with a book and something to drink.

There's no particular reason to rush back. I think places like Sidi Kaouki remind you how little you actually need to have a good afternoon. Some sunshine, somewhere comfortable to sit and a view you don't get tired of looking at.

Although, once again, don't underestimate the wind.

The little things worth bringing home

I'm not a huge fan of buying things just for the sake of having a souvenir.

But I do love finding something made locally that I'll actually use when I get home.

Essaouira is known for its thuya woodwork, and you'll find some beautiful handmade pieces in the medina. There are also ceramics, textiles, baskets and little shops selling natural oils and soaps.

I much prefer taking my time and finding one thing I really like rather than coming home with a bag full of things that will eventually end up in a cupboard.

And sometimes the best things you bring home aren't things at all. A new recipe you want to try, a book you've discovered, or simply the memory of a really good afternoon.

Three days is lovely. Four would be better.

You can certainly see plenty of Essaouira over a long weekend.

The medina is compact enough to explore on foot, the beach is right there and it's easy to spend a day visiting Sidi Kaouki.

But I wouldn't try to pack too much in.

Have a leisurely breakfast. Get lost down a few streets. Stop for coffee whenever somewhere catches your eye. Go back to a restaurant you enjoyed rather than feeling you have to try somewhere new every time.

And leave yourself a little time to do absolutely nothing. There's a temptation when travelling to make the most of every minute, especially when you've only got a few days. I understand that. Nobody wants to feel they've missed something. But I think there's a difference between making the most of a place and trying to see all of it.

Essaouira is somewhere I'd happily return to without an itinerary, without a list of restaurants to tick off and without any particular plans.

Just a few days by the Atlantic, good food, plenty of coffee and time to wander.

Sometimes that's more than enough.